Tweagle Manual

Aileron horns

Hold the brass aileronhorn aganst the aileron and put a mark were to drill the hole through the webbing.

Drill with a 2 mm drill a hole through the webbing. This doesn’t need to be deep. The aileronhorn is sharp and finds it way through the rohacell core.

Pull the aileronhorn through and push it into the aileron. At the same time put some force with your thumb and index finger to make sure the aileron doesn’t split open.

Once it sits at its place drop some thin CA around the hole to make sure that the rohacell around the aileron horn hardens. Also let some thin CA run along the horizontal part of the aileronhorn to secure it forever. Then repeat this at the opposite site.

Put the stearingrods on the aileron horns and test if everything runs wel. Make sure they sit just like in the picture

A litle tool bend from a steal wire might help to connect the stearingrods once the wing is mounted on the fuse.

Launch Peg

Then move on to the launchpeg. A small hole should be milled into the wing according to the measurements in the drawing.

Sand away the paint close to the launchpeg to ensure that the glue around will hold better on the wingskin. Do this at the top and bottom side.

Drop some thin or medium CA around the peg and spray some kicker from a distance to harden it. Do this step around 4 or 5 times to make a nice filé around the peg. Repeat this for the bottom side. Epoxy might work also just takes a lot longer.

End result should look like this.

Servo tray

Next step is making the servotray. In this case it’s made from 6 mm MPX which is cut to fit the servo’s. The servo’s are glued together with double sided tape and glued on the servoboard. If you use lower height servo’s like Graupner DES 281 they will fit also just sitting straight up on a normal servotray. Any higher servo’s need to be mounted siteways. The metal rod that moves into the aileron rods should be mounted from the outside in like the picture to make sure that they don’t run against the sides of the fuse.


Then move on to the fuselage. With a dremel you can open up the backside of the stab pylon and make enough room for the elevator horn to move in and out freely.

Then make a small opening on the side just in front of the vertical for the rudder cable to pass through.

Next step is to open up the fuse at the top and bottomside to fit in the vertical fin. The leading edge should be pointing about 1 mm outside the midle with the flatside away from you (right handed flat side rightside, left handed flatside leftside) Behind the thickest point of the vertical the fuse sides can be kept completely flat and glued around the vertical following the lines of the vertical fin.

Horns and Springs

Cut some horns for the elevator and rudder from the piece of glass.

For the elevator the lenght from the hole to the bottom should be about 12mm, for the rudder 8mm (drawing). The backside for the elevator horn can be opened like on the drawing to be able to remove the stab during transport or if you like to take of the tension from the springs (not nessecary but possible)

With a cut of sawblade (dremel might work also) you can cut a slide for the elevator and rudderhorn.

With a bit of thin CA around you can secure the horns.

With a dremel or cut saw blade you can make some space for the springs. Push one side of the spring in completely, then turn it 90 degrees and push in the other side. With a small drop C.A. the won’t come loose anymore.The CA also hardens the Rohacell so the springs shouldn’t come out and there is no need for tubes around the spring.

Vertical tail

Then its time to glue in the vertical. Make sure the wing and stab are mounted so that you have some good references to straighten out the vertical. Once you are happy the way it sits drop some tiny drops of CA and take a look from the nose towards the vertical to see if its straight with the leading edge 0.6 degrees (1 mm) offset towards the outside. If it is all ok then let some CA run along the joint. A patch of glass fibre or carbon fibre is really not necessary and will just add extra weight.

After this is done you can pull some steering cables from the back to the front of the fuse. cevlar or aramide cable will work but by far the best are guitar shords 0.009 or 0.01 inch 0.23 or 0.25 mm. They are easy to connect with a sleeve made form injection needles. Just cut of a 1 cm piece with a dremel, put it around the cable, bring the cable through the horn and back through the sleeve. Then push it together at several places with some small cuttingpliers

If you tape down your servotray for a moment in the fuse its easy to make them to lenght.

Aileron rods

Then cut the aileron steering rods to lenght with a dremel and cut a slot about 10 mm from the end.

Now its the time to connect the aileron rods and check all the servo’s if they are neutral (rudder and elevator) or if they have the right offset (about 30% from the neutal point to enlarge down travel (ailerons). Connect the servo horns from the elevator and rudder servo and move the servoboard at its place with the metal rods into the carbon tubes. When the rudder and elevator are neutral you can glue the servoboard to the bottom of the fuse with CA and some kicker. Then push the ailerons to their neutral position, Check if the transmitter sits at neutral also and if this is al OK then let some thin CA run into the slots and harden it with some kicker.

The ballast tube can be glued to the bottom of the fuse. It should be opened fairly wide at the top to make sure the ballast passes in easily and should not proceed the hole at the bottom of the fuse since you need the space there for connecting and disconnecting the aileron rods. Ballast can be longer. The ballast tube will make sure the ballast doesn’t interfere with the steering. A small piece of ply just behind the servo’s with a hole in there can be used to secure the ballast.

To finish the plane off, all the hinge gaps can be covered with the supplied tape. Tape on the non moving part with a 2 mm overlap.


CG 68 mm + 2 mm
Aileron +/- 10 mm (more or less to your liking). No differential.
Launch Neutral
Cruise + 1.5mm
Thermal + 3 to 4 mm
Elevator 5 mm up, down to the boom
Rudder +/- 13 mm